How Long Do You Have?

       When it comes to choosing an investment option, you need to consider your time horizon – how long you have until you need the money. This is true of any financial goal. The longer you have, the more risk you can afford to take (and the higher your return might be). Once you know your time horizon, you can start considering your investment options.

Cash – Time Horizon: 0 – 5 Days

       Think cash is king? Not when it comes to savings options. Cash may seem like the safest option, but you’ll lose money to inflation. The only reason you should have your down payment in cash is because you need it within a week. Though I wouldn’t walk into a closing with that much cash! A checking account is the equivalent of cash because it usually yields no interest, so just take a check instead.

High-Yield Online Savings Accounts – Time Horizon: 5 Days – 2 Years

       I skipped regular savings accounts because the interest they offer is pitiful compared to high-yield online savings accounts (like ING Direct). High-yield savings accounts offer a decent short-term interest rate and are backed by FDIC insurance. This means they’re risk free up to the insurance limits. If you have less than two years until you need the money, this could be your best option.

Certificates of Deposit (CDs) – Time Horizon: 2 Years – 5 Years

       CDs are a good option if you have a longer time horizon because they’ll let you lock in a fixed rate for a specific number of years. There are three problems here though. First, there is often a minimum purchase amount for CDs – usually $1,000. Since you can’t add on to a CD you already own, you’ll have to buy a new one every time you have the money.

       Second, CDs can take some managing if you don’t keep them all at the same bank. If you’re chasing the highest rates, you’ll probably have to utilize several different banks. This means having several accounts in different places – and that’s not necessarily a good thing.

       And third, putting your money in a CD means it is locked up. You generally can’t get to it early without penalties. This is why I recommend using a high-yield online savings account if you’ve got less than two years. You can pull your money out of there at any time with no penalty.

       If CDs don’t sound like something you’d want to try, I’d recommend looking at short-term government bond mutual funds. Vanguard offers VSGBX and VFISX which both have an investment minimum of $3,000. However, you can make additional investments of only $100 (or $50 if you use automatic deposits) after that point. You can avoid the $20 service fee by signing up for electronic delivery of your statements and other documents. These funds are quite stable and low risk while generally offering slightly higher rates than CDs.

Intermediate-Term Bond Funds – Time Horizon: 5 Years – 10 Years

       Intermediate-term bond mutual funds offer slightly higher returns than the other options but with slightly more risk. You should only consider them if you have five to ten years until you’ll be buying your home. Again, Vanguard is a good choice here. The same minimums apply, but you’ll want to look at funds with the ticker symbols VIPSX, VBIIX, VFITX, VFICX, or VBMFX. You won’t get stellar returns with these options, but they’ll pay you more than enough to beat the other choices and keep up with inflation.

Conservative Stock/Bond Portfolio – Time Horizon: 10 Years – 20 Years

       If you have a good long time until you’ll be buying a house, consider looking at a conservative mix of stocks and bonds for your savings. A good target would be 20-30% in stocks and 70-80% in bonds. A mix like this will give you a reasonable chance of outperforming other options for your savings, but your longer time horizon will decrease the risk of losing money. If you need help figuring out how you should allocate your investments, check out my free portfolio allocation calculator.

Moderate Stock/Bond Portfolio – Time Horizon: 20 Years +

       Finally, if you’re not planning to buy a home for at least twenty years or more, you might consider using a moderate mix of stocks and bonds. In this case, somewhere between 40-60% in stocks and 40-60% in bonds would be a reasonable choice. Again, the long time horizon will help ensure you minimize your chances of losing money, but the more aggressive investment choices will give you the chance of higher profits. See the above link to my free calculator if you’d like to see what a sample portfolio would look like.

Your Thoughts

       What savings options would you use and why? What advice would you give to those who are saving for a house? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Related Articles at Provident Planning:

1. Investing Basics: What Is a Bond?
2. How to Invest for Retirement: A Diversified Investment Portfolio
3. Investing Basics: What Is a Mutual Fund?
4. How Long is Long Term?
5. Investing Basics: What Is a Security?

• Step 1 – Declare War on Your Debt
• Step 2 – Stop Increasing Your Debt
• Step 3 – Create a Budget & Stick to It
• Step 4 – Find Ways to Cut Back & Earn More
• Step 5 – Build a Starter Emergency Fund
• Step 6 – Make a Plan to Pay Off Your Debt
• Step 7 – Focus on Paying Off Your Debt
• Step 8 – Celebrate Milestones

Step 9 – Top Off Your Emergency Fund

       You’ve reached your final milestone. You’ve paid off your debts. Congratulations!!! Enjoy the moment and celebrate the fact that you’ve come so far. You’ve accomplished your goal and you should be joyful.

       But if you want to avoid sinking into debt again, you’re going to have to apply everything you’ve learned along the way and take a couple extra steps to protect yourself. The last two parts of this series will deal with the follow-through.

       After paying off your debt, your next goal should be to bolster your savings so that no emergency will force you into debt again. In Step 5, you built a starter emergency fund that equaled one month’s worth of your living expenses. Now it’s time to top off that fund depending on your circumstances.

       To figure out how much you should have in your emergency fund, think of it in terms of levels of risk. Some people have a very stable situation and may not need as large of a fund. Others will have much more risk in their situation and should consider saving more. These are not hard and fast rules. They’re simply a guideline to help you think about what works for your situation.

Level 1: Three Months of Living Expenses

       Once you’ve got your debt under control, your next emergency fund goal should be three months worth of living expenses. This gives you a large enough cushion to withstand a job loss if you can find another job quickly. It will also help you cover car repairs, some medical bills, and other small to medium sized emergencies. If you’re married and you both have stable jobs, you might feel comfortable stopping here. If you’re single, married with one income, self-employed, or have an unstable job, you’ll want to keep going.

Level 2: Six Months of Living Expenses

       An emergency fund with six months worth of living expenses should be large enough for most people. You’ll have plenty of time to find a new job in most scenarios. However, you might want a larger emergency fund if the economy looks bleak or if you are single or married with one income and you have an unstable job or you are self-employed. In those cases, I’d recommend going for a larger emergency fund.

Level 3: Twelve Months of Living Expenses

       If you’re self-employed or have an unstable job and you rely on only one income, you’re going to want to play it safe and save up twelve months of living expenses in your emergency fund. This will help you make it through rough patches in your career when profits are down or you lose your job. This would also be a great idea if you or your children have medical needs that require large payments at unpredictable intervals.

Adjust for Your Situation

       If you feel that your situation doesn’t fall into one of these specific categories, then use these as guidelines and save what you feel you’ll need. This guide should help most people get close to the right-sized emergency fund for them. Don’t get discouraged if you feel like it’s a lot. Attack this goal in small steps and you’ll quickly make progress. If you have questions, just leave them in the comments and I’ll try to help!

       This series is almost finished! In the last step, I’m going to talk about a couple others things you should consider to help you stay out of debt. This isn’t to say you’ll never use debt again. But the next time you do, it will be a conscious choice based on good and sound reasons. Make sure you’ve signed up for free updates to Provident Planning so you don’t miss out on this important last step! Plus, I’ll be bundling this series with helpful resources and calculators in the future. It’ll be a valuable guide for getting out of debt. If you’ve signed up for free updates, you’ll be sure to see it as soon as it’s available.

       Have you topped off your emergency fund yet? How long did it take, and how did you do it? What level did you choose and why? Let me know in the comments below!


       P.S. Here are some other articles about emergency funds if you’d like to read more:

• Should a Christian Have an Emergency Fund?
• You Need an Emergency Fund
• Where to Keep Your Emergency Fund
• How to Build Up Your Emergency Fund
• When Should You Use Your Emergency Fund?

Related Articles at Provident Planning:

1. Emergency Fund – How Much Is Enough?
2. How to Get Out of Debt: Step 5 – Build a Starter Emergency Fund
3. You Need an Emergency Fund
4. When Should You Use Your Emergency Fund?
5. How to Get Out of Debt: Step 7 – Focus on Paying Off Your Debt

TO MY FRIEND, Y.P.:

       You asked me for my advice, so I’ve written these tips for you. They worked well for me, and they’ll work for you if you’ll follow them.

       Don’t forget, time is money. Let’s say you can earn $200/day. Now if you sit and watch TV for half the day, you can’t count the $3 you spent for cable as your only expense. You’ve really spent – actually, you wasted – $100 besides that.

       Don’t forget, credit is money. If a man is late collecting the money I owe him, he’s giving me the interest that can be earned on it. This extra interest can add up if we’re talking about a lot of money.

       Don’t forget, money can compound. Money can give birth to money, and its babies can give birth to more, and so on. A hundred dollars used well can become two hundred. That two hundred can become four hundred, and so on until you have ten thousand dollars. The more money you have, the more you can make each time you use it well. Then your profits will increase faster and faster. But if you kill the goose that lays the golden eggs, you destroy all the eggs you would have gotten in the future. If you murder a hundred dollars, you destroy all that it might have produced, even ten thousand dollars.

       Don’t forget, that $1,825 a year is only $5 a day. For that small amount (which you can easily waste in time or money) a man with good credit could cover the interest on a personal loan of $20,000. That much money put to quick work by a diligent man gives a great head start.

       Remember this saying, “The man who pays his loans on time owns another man’s bank account.” If you always pay on time and as you promised, you’ll never have trouble borrowing more money. This can be very useful. After hard work and frugality, nothing brings more success to a young man than punctuality and justice in all he does. So never keep borrowed money an hour longer than you promised. A bad mark on your credit history could close the bank for a long time.

       Pay attention to even the smallest things that can affect your credit. If your creditor knows you’re working hard, he’ll give you a break. But if he sees that you’re being lazy and not trying to pay him back, he’ll be demanding you pay him back all of his money tomorrow.

       Your diligent work and long hours will show that you remember what you owe. It also makes you appear to be a careful and honest man, and that will improve your credit as well.

       Don’t live like everything you have belongs to you. Too many people with a credit card make this mistake. To avoid it, carefully track your income and expenses for several months. If you take the time at the beginning to track even the smallest things, you’ll have great results. Here’s why. You’ll see how tiny amounts pile up into larger amounts of money. Then you’ll know where you’ve wasted money and how you can save it in the future with very little inconvenience.

       Here’s what it boils down to. The way to wealth, if you really want to know it, is as clear as the way to Target. It depends mainly on just two things – diligent work and frugality. Waste neither time nor money. Make the best use of both. Without hard work and frugality you’ll get nowhere. But with them, you can go anywhere. The man who gets all he can honestly and saves all he gets (except what he needs to live) will definitely become rich. Provided, of course, that God (whom everyone should ask for blessing on their honest work) doesn’t have other plans for that man.

An Old Pro

Related Articles at Provident Planning:

1. Weekend Reading – 04/16/2010
2. Weekend Reading – 04/30/2010
3. Weekend Reading – 02/05/2010
4. Is Being Frugal a Waste of Time?
5. Weekend Reading – 01/01/2010

First, Learn the Basics

       This is especially true in personal finance. You don’t have to be a seasoned financial planner to begin finding success. You don’t even need to spend a ton of time to understand the basics. They’re simple. Spend less. Earn more. Save and invest. Be wise and cautious when making purchases (goods, services, or investments). Plan ahead. Don’t pay things you don’t have to (like extra taxes). And so on. A basic education is all you need to start finding success in your personal finances.

       You don’t need an accounting degree to make a budget. You don’t have to be Warren Buffet to start investing. You don’t have to go to law school to get your estate documents in place.

Then, Take Action

       Success in personal finance is not necessarily about knowing all the right answers. It’s about taking action. Those who only read about the benefits of budgeting will never be as successful as those who actually try to make a budget and stick to it. This is true even if the doers are not successful the first time.

       You can learn by reading about the experiences of others – but only so much. Until you start creating your own experiences, the information will just be knowledge in your head. You must start using it yourself!

       Don’t think I’m discounting the value of learning, education, and research. To be truly successful, you’ll have to keep learning. But you can’t get started on the road to success unless you follow a pattern of learning, doing, learning, doing, and so on.

Avoid Danger Areas!

       I’ll end with a few cautions especially true in personal finance. In some areas of personal finance, there are unscrupulous people who will try to take advantage of your lack of education. Insurance, investing, and debt are the most common places you’ll run into this, but you can really find it anywhere. Here’s the key: Before doing something, make sure you’re aware of the possible problems/pitfalls and educate yourself on how to avoid them.

       Here’s an example. In investing and insurance, you must be aware of how advisors and salesmen get paid. If it’s commissions, know what conflicts of interest might exist. In other words, learn how people might try to rip you off and be on the lookout for those techniques.

       Even though there are risks to the learn, do, learn method, you can avoid most major mistakes by learning first about the danger areas and how to avoid them. In personal finance, be aware of those who earn commissions, learn the math of debt, and read the academic research on investing.

Now Do Something!!!

       So get out there and start doing the needed things to achieve success. Stop reading about budgeting and do it! Stop worrying about having enough for retirement and start saving! Stop dreaming of starting your own business and do it! You’re never going to get anywhere until you take action.


P.S. I think I wrote this as much for me as for anyone else. I have the curse of perfectionism, and I must battle it every day. There is no such thing as perfect in this world. Only God is perfect. So I need to stop worrying about doing everything perfectly and just start doing. What about you?

Related Articles at Provident Planning:

1. Weekend Reading – 05/28/2010
2. Debt Is Not Evil
3. Show Me in the Scriptures…
4. Investing Basics: What Is an Investment?
5. What Makes Christian Personal Finance Different?

Why Does It Matter?

       So why should you care what (or who) a fiduciary is? In the financial world, there are two types of advisors:

1. Those who are fiduciaries.

 

2. Those who are not.

       If you understand what a fiduciary is, you’ll see that advisors who are fiduciaries are required to do what’s best for you. Advisors who are not fiduciaries are not held to such a standard. It’s perfectly legal for them to put their own interests first – to act in a way that might not provide the best benefits to you. Obviously, you want to use a fiduciary advisor whenever possible because of their legal responsibility to you.

       There are very clear guidelines on who is considered a fiduciary in the financial world and who is not. The following people are NOT considered fiduciaries:

• Stock Brokers
• Insurance Agents
• Real Estate Agents acting on the other party’s behalf (This is common when you are buying, as most real estate agents are acting on behalf of the seller.)

       ”Advisors” in this group do not represent you. They represent themselves, their company, or someone else. They have no legal responsibility to act in your best interest. They are simply not permitted to commit fraud or provide you with “unsuitable” recommendations. But the “unsuitable” standard is very broad and difficult to impose.

       On the other hand, people in these groups are considered fiduciaries:

• Registered Investment Advisers (RIAs) or Investment Adviser Representatives (IARs)
• Insurance Brokers
• Real Estate Agents acting on your behalf
• CPAs
• Attorneys

       Advisors in this group are legally required to act and advise you only for your benefit and interests. They can never act in a way that is contrary to what is best for you. They must act with undivided loyalty to you. If they fail to do so, you are entitled to legal action against them. It’s not enough for them to just provide “suitable” recommendations. They must try their hardest to provide you with the best advice possible.

       Let’s use a simple example. If you go to a stock broker, the broker can recommend you invest in Fund A (as long as it’s “suitable”) even though Fund B is better for you. Why would he do this? Probably because Fund A will give him a higher commission.

       Now let’s say you go to a Registered Investment Adviser (or an Investment Advisor Representative – someone who works for an RIA). Because RIAs have a fiduciary duty to their clients, they’ll always be required to recommend you invest in Fund B since it’s your best option. RIAs can’t receive commissions or do anything that’s not in their client’s best interests. So who do you want to get your advice from? The stock broker or the RIA?

       It’s quite clear that fiduciaries are held to a much higher standard than non-fiduciaries. Whenever possible, you should seek to obtain advice from people who are held to a fiduciary standard. Ask your advisors if they are fiduciaries. Ask them if they are required to always act in your best interests. They are required to answer truthfully, and you should be wary of those who cannot answer with a confident and resounding “yes”.

       Have you ever heard of the term “fiduciary” before? Is there any aspect of the fiduciary duty/standard you’re not clear on? Let me know in the comments, and I’ll do my best to answer your questions!

Related Articles at Provident Planning:

1. Home
2. Review: Prudential’s Retirement Red Zone
3. The Mortgage Interest Deduction: It’s Not as Good as You Think
4. Weekend Reading – 03/05/2010
5. Hiring a Financial Planner: The First Phone Call